All Chef Should Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.

When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.

John Sullivan
John Sullivan

Emma Velthuis is a Dutch film critic with a passion for uncovering hidden gems and analyzing cinematic trends.